Growing Currants: A Complete Profile

By Growing Home Greens Team · August 6, 2026

Currant
Photo: Wikimedia Commons contributor via Wikimedia Commons, Public domain, cropped.

Currants are the fruit for the difficult corner. They tolerate part shade better than anything else you can grow for fruit, they’re hardy to zone 3, and they crop from their second year. If you have a north-facing fence or a spot that only gets morning sun, this is what goes there.

They’re also badly underrated in the US, largely for a historical reason worth knowing before you order one.

Check your state first

Currants and gooseberries are both Ribes, and Ribes can host white pine blister rust, a disease that kills five-needle pines. The US banned the genus federally in 1911. The federal ban ended in 1966, but some states and counties still restrict or prohibit planting, and the rules vary by species. Black currants are more often restricted than red.

This takes five minutes to check and it’s the first thing to do. Nurseries won’t always ship to a restricted state, but not all of them check.

Growing them

Plant a bush 1-2 inches deeper than it grew in the pot. Unlike most fruit, that’s deliberate: burying the crown slightly encourages new shoots from the base, and a currant’s productivity depends on a steady supply of them.

They crop on wood that’s one, two and three years old, with the heaviest yield on two-year-old wood. So pruning is simple: each winter, cut out anything four years or older at the base, and take out the weakest new shoots. Aim for roughly a dozen stems of mixed ages.

Full sun gives the biggest crop, but part shade costs you far less than it would with any other fruit, which is the whole argument for growing them.

What goes wrong

Yields drop after a few years. Old wood. Currants that are never pruned become a thicket of unproductive four- and five-year-old stems. The annual cut-out is what keeps them going.

Leaves drop in midsummer. Usually currant leaf spot, worse in crowded, humid conditions. Prune for airflow and clear fallen leaves.

Blistered red patches on the leaves. Currant blister aphid. Ugly, rarely serious.

Birds. As with everything else here. Net it.

Where to put it

Part shade is fine, full sun is better, and it wants about four feet of space. Cool, moist soil suits it; it’s less drought-tolerant than most fruit and appreciates a mulch.

Because it takes shade, a currant is a good use of the north side of a bed, behind taller crops, where you couldn’t put much else productive.

Source: Growing currants and gooseberries in the home garden, University of Minnesota Extension.

Companion planting guide for Currant · Find your planting dates

Typically viable in USDA zones 3-8. Not sure your zone? Look it up by ZIP code.

Method: Buy as a start: Buy as a nursery start and transplant outside. Currant is slow or unreliable from seed, so most gardeners skip seed-starting it entirely.

See exact start-indoors, direct-sow, and harvest dates for your zone →

How many Currant plants fit per square foot?

Spacing: about 20 square feet per plant (square-foot-gardening spacing). Mature height: 3-5 ft.

Varieties worth considering

Cited from the source shown next to each variety. We haven't grown these ourselves yet, so treat this as a research-backed starting point, not a personal endorsement.

Where to buy currant starts

Currant is almost always bought as a nursery start rather than seeded. Check a local nursery or garden center; we haven't vetted online start/plant suppliers yet.

See it growing

Search YouTube for "growing currant" videos → (a live search, not a hand-picked video; results vary and aren't vetted by us)

Currant: growing guide

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Growing Currant: Currants tolerate shade better than any other fruit, crop from year two, and are restricted in some US states. What to know before you buy one.

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